Tech Guide: Buying a CD/DVD burner
By Staff writers, Special to ZDNet
June 03, 2004
URL: http://www.zdnet.com.au/reviews/hardware/storage/soa/Tech-Guide-Buying-a-CD-DVD-burner/0,139023427,139149250,00.htm
From discs to drives, our Tech Guide has everything you need to know about burning CDs and DVDs.
What's a burner?
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A CD burner, which connects to your computer, can both play and create CDs. DVD burners, on the other hand, are a bit more advanced and can both play and create CDs and DVDs. With a burner, discs are loaded and unloaded via a sliding tray, and they're read using a laser, just like in your CD or DVD player. The laser shines on the reflective inner layer of a disc, detecting differences that are patterned to represent data. But unlike a regular CD or DVD player, a burner's laser can also create -- or burn -- these data marks.
Still, you can't just stick an old Michael Bolton CD into a burner and write over it (much as you might want to). Burners use a few different kinds of discs, each for a slightly different task. A DVD burner can read CD-ROMs, such as a store-bought music CD, and DVD-Videos, such as your store-bought copy of Toy Story. A DVD burner can also read and write data on a CD-R disc -- the R stands for recordable -- as well as on DVD-R and DVD+R discs (don't worry, we'll explain the differences between -R and +R later). Additionally, most CD and DVD burners can also read and write data on rewritable discs, which you can rewrite over and over again (about 1,000 times); a rewritable CD is referred to as a CD-RW, and rewritable DVDs come in a few formats, including DVD+RW, DVD-RW, and DVD-RAM. |
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They look the same, but there are some important differences between DVD and CD burners.
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What's the difference between a CD burner and a DVD burner?
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In this guide, we'll concentrate primarily on DVD burners. Why? All DVD burners can burn CDs, but CD-only burners won't burn or even play DVD media of any kind. Furthermore, DVD burners have become so affordable that there are fewer reasons to buy a CD-only burner.
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X ratings
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Shorthand terms are used to describe how fast a burner performs. A CD-RW drive rated 52X/32X/52X can write a CD-R at 52X, write a CD-RW at 32X, and read a CD at 52X. The X stands for times the original transfer rate of a disc. For a CD, the original transfer rate is 150 kilobytes (KB) per second; so 52X would equal 7.8 megabytes (MB) per second, and 32X would come to 4.8MB per second (1MB equals 100KB). Note that those are only the maximum ratings, however -- you'll need a 52X-rated CD to capitalise on the drive's speed potential; depending on the task, the disc, and the drive, the transfer rate still may not reach 52X. Another thing to know about the max rating: at 16X and above, CD-RW drives write in speed zones. In other words, they start off slow and incrementally increase their speed until they're writing at full velocity.
DVD drives are rated the same way. A DVD burner rated 4X/2X/12X can write DVDs at 4X, rewrite at 2X, and read at 12X. However, newer DVD drives are increasingly referred to by their plus and dash recording speeds only. For example, the latest batch of burners is often called 8X8 drives -- meaning that they can write both DVD+R and DVD-R at 8X. This is to distinguish them from the first batch of 8X drives which burned DVD+R at 8X but DVD-R at only 4X.
DVDs' original 1X transfer rate is 1.385MB per second -- much faster than CDs' -- and an 8X DVD drive can transfer data at a whopping 11.08MB per second. Like CD-RW drives, DVD writing at 8X and above occurs in speed zones.
There are currently only two DVD speed zones, and the upshift occurs early in the process, so the difference between the rating and the actual time to write a disc is pretty close. Take note that DVD-RAM's 1X transfer rate is about 700KB per second, making it much slower to burn than other DVD media.
The table below translates CD and DVD speeds into their approximate burning times. (Notice that performance gains diminish despite higher ratings, due to the aforementioned speed zones.)
HOW TIME FLIES: APPROXIMATE CD AND DVD BURNING TIMES
| X rating |
Time to burn a 650MB CD |
Time to burn a 4.7GB DVD |
| 1X |
80 minutes |
58 minutes |
| 2X |
40 minutes |
29 minutes |
| 2.4X (DVD+RW only) |
--- |
24 minutes |
| 4X |
20 minutes |
14.5 minutes |
| 8X |
10 minutes |
8.5 minutes |
| 12X |
6 minutes |
N/A |
| 16X maximum |
5 minutes |
N/A |
| 24X maximum |
3.3 minutes |
N/A |
| 32X maximum |
3 minutes |
N/A |
| 40X maximum |
3 minutes, 20 seconds |
N/A |
| 48X maximum |
2 minutes, 40 seconds |
N/A |
| 52X maximum |
2 minutes, 20 seconds |
N/A |
It's widely held that CD burners, at 52X, have already reached their maximum speed, but DVD burners are expected to continue to climb to 16X. Unless scientists develop new technology (which they might), 52X and 16X seem to be as fast as the respective media can spin without breaking up.
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Format wars
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Trying to make sense out of the alphabet soup of DVD formats -- the mysterious jumble of pluses and minuses, Rs and Ws, and RAMs and ROMS -- may trigger a high-school algebra flashback. We won't spend too much time on why these various formats exist -- suffice it to say that competing vendors have differing philosophies and market agendas. Panasonic and the DVD Forum are primarily responsible for the original DVD-RAM and DVD-R/RW formats, while Philips and a splinter group, the DVD Alliance, have pioneered the DVD+R/RW alternative.
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| We have the DVD Forum and
its rival, the DVD Alliance, to thank for the confusion that surrounds DVD formats.
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CD formats are fairly simple and come in two flavours: CD-R recordable and CD-RW rewritable (note that the dash isn't spoken; it's pronounced CDR and CDRW). DVD's mish-mash of standards features no less than five major formats, however: DVD-R (pronounced DVD-dash-R), DVD-RW (DVD-dash-RW), DVD+R (DVD-plus-R), DVD+RW (DVD-plus-RW), and pronounced-as-spelled (no dash) DVD-RAM.
All five DVD formats offer roughly 4.7GB of storage, but they differ in some subtle and not-so-subtle ways. DVD-R and DVD+R may be written to only once, but they offer high compatibility with drives and set-top DVD players. DVD+RW and DVD-RW can be written and erased approximately 1,000 times, but they are a little less compatible with some DVD players.
Sturdy DVD-RAM can be written and erased up to 100,000 times, although it's a slower media, and few drives or set-top players can read it. Furthermore, DVD-RAM often comes in protective cartridges that you must remove before inserting the discs into most drives. In removing a DVD-RAM from its cartridge, unfortunately, you significantly cut its 100,000-rewrite rating, due to the likelihood of damage from handling and elements.
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You'll have to consider a number of factors when you choose a burner. Of course, cash is king, and the amount you're willing to spend will largely dictate which drive you'll end up with. The price of DVD burners continues to plunge, and these do-it-all devices offer the best bang for the buck. Still, if you're not ready to spend the extra money and you're primarily interested in burning CDs, you can pick up a CD-RW drive on the cheap. Or you can spend just a few dollars more for a combo drive -- a CD-RW that can read, but not write, DVDs.
Drive options:
Innie or outtie? |
External connections |
How fast is fast enough? |
Double layer and blue laser
Innie or outtie
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You'll have to decide whether to connect your burner to your computer internally or externally. Internal drives cost considerably less, but you'll have to open up your computer to install one -- a daunting task if you've never done it before.
Installing an external drive is much simpler and requires simply connecting a few cords to your PC. As such, external burners are significantly more portable and easier to share in a household or a small office.
Take note, however, that external drives connect to your computer via a USB 2.0 or FireWire port; if your PC doesn't already have one of those, you'll need to install one, which, as with an internal burner, will require you to open up your computer. Performancewise, we've noticed little difference between internal and external units.
In any event, if portability isn't a concern and you have an adventurous soul, we recommend buying an internal burner over an external burner -- the savings is worth the extra half hour it will take you. We can even help you figure out how to install your burner.
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Which external connection
should I use?
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SCSI and parallel ports used to be popular connections for external drives, but more modern technologies, USB 2.0 and FireWire, also known as IEEE 1394 (and iLink by Sony), have rendered them obsolete. USB 2.0 is the more common connection type, although FireWire offers greater transfer speeds.
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| Four-pin FireWire |
Six-pin FireWire (also serves as a
power source) |
USB 2.0 port |
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How fast is fast enough?
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We all crave the latest and greatest technology, but drives that are one step behind the bleeding edge usually offer the best price-to-performance ratio. As of May 2004, the fastest DVD burners were rated 8X/4X/12X; that is, they are capable of recording at 8X on DVD+R and DVD-R, writing at 4X on DVD+RW and DVD-RW, and reading DVDs at 12X. These DVD burners are also pretty handy with CDs, recording on CD-R at 24X, writing CD-RW at 24X, and reading CDs at 40X. Still, the fastest CD-only drives, rated 52X/32X/52X, retain only a slight edge.
Unless you're burning dozens of DVDs each day, the extra 15 minutes per burn that a slower 4X burner will cost you won't kill you -- but it could save you a few hundred dollars. Even a 2X drive (if you can find one) will do the job for many users. One caveat: If you're considering a bargain-bin 2.4X DVD+RW drive, make sure it also writes DVD+R -- first-generation models didn't.
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Should I wait for a double-layer or blue-laser drive?
Sony's dual-layer DVD
writer the DRU700A drive
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Another reason to go cheap for the time being is that bigger and better technologies await in the near future. Double-layer drives, which can hold twice as much data (8.5GB) as the currently available DVD-R or DVD+R discs have just begun to come to market, and although they're expensive (and slow), we're pretty excited. Twice the data is nice, but what's really compelling about double layer is that these discs are big enough to fit an entire uncompressed commercial movie. Still, double-layer media won't be widely available until later this year, and it'll be expensive. Proceed with caution.
Also coming down the pike are blue-laser (also known as Blu-ray) drives and discs that can pack 27GB of data onto a single-sided disc, but don't hold your breath. Expected to cost thousands of dollars when they're released in 2005 or 2006, blue-laser drives will be capable of recording, rewriting, and playing huge, high-definition television files.
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When shopping for blank CDs and DVDs, be careful -- it's a time-tested truth that you will get what you pay for. You can certainly find bargains on high-quality discs, particularly with CD media, but bear in mind that some cheaper discs are prone to errors, may not last as long, and could create compatibility problems with your home stereo or your set-top DVD player. CNET uses Verbatim media for testing CD and DVD drives, but it's worth trying out a few brands to see what works best for you.
Disc options:
What kind of disc should I use? |
Minutes vs. megabytes |
Recordable vs. rewritable
What kind of disc should I use?
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The mess of media formats can be mind-numbing, and each has its pros and cons. We break down each kind of disc.
| DISC TYPE |
RECORDABLE |
REWRITABLE |
CAPACITY |
ATTRIBUTES |
| CD-ROM |
-- |
-- |
74 mins./650MB
or
80
mins./700MB |
Nonrecordable.
Software typically
distributed on CD-ROM. Commercially pressed rather than
burned. |
| CD-R |
Once only |
-- |
74 mins./650MB
or
80
mins./700MB |
Good for recording audio CDs.
Highly
compatible with CD players. |
| CD-RW |
-- |
Up to 1,000 times |
74 mins./650MB
or
80
mins./700MB |
Less compatible with CD players.
Slower
than recordable media.
Less expensive over time (if
reused). |
| DVD-R |
Once only |
-- |
4.7 GB |
Highly compatible with set-top DVD
players. |
| DVD+R |
Once only |
-- |
4.7 GB |
Slightly less compatible than DVD-R with
set-top DVD players. |
| DVD-RW |
-- |
Up to 1,000 times |
4.7 GB |
Slightly less compatible than DVD-R and DVD+R
with set-top DVD players. |
| DVD+RW |
-- |
Up to 1,000 times |
4.7 GB |
Slightly less compatible than DVD-R and DVD+R
with set-top DVD players. |
| Double-layer (DL) DVD |
Once only |
-- |
8.5 GB |
Large enough to hold most full-length movies
without compression. Compatible with set-top players. |
| DVD-RAM |
-- |
Up to 100,000 times |
4.7 GB |
Much less compatible with set-top DVD
players.
Good for archiving. |
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Minutes vs. megabytes: Sizing up discs
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The number of minutes you see listed on CD media labels, generally 74 or 80, tells you how many minutes of music the disc will hold. The number of megabytes listed, typically 650 or 700, lets you know how much data it can hold. CD technology was originally created to hold 74 minutes of music and 650MB of data, but nearly all manufacturers have bumped up capacity to 700MB (or 80 minutes), and these are usually the type of discs you'll find in stores.
CD audio has a single fixed bit rate that results in a nice, predictable capacity; video and audio on DVD can come in a number of resolutions and variable bit rates, so there's no way to state definitively the exact number of minutes of A/V data a DVD will hold. That said, a 4.7GB DVD generally holds about 4 hours of DVD-quality video and about 16 hours of VHS quality video.
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Recordable vs. rewritable
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If you're using your drive for backing up files, editing or working with unfinished video, storing programs that you might patch in the future, or any other task where your data may change over time, we recommend using rewritable discs, such as -RW, +RW, or -RAM.
Although these discs cost more initially, they're reusable, so they're a more economical solution over time, not to mention more environmentally friendly.
Use recordable discs (-R, +R) when you're absolutely sure you'll be keeping data (for example, when you're burning a movie that you'll want to hold on to) or when you need to be 100 percent certain that the disc will play in any machine (most CD players won't play a CD-RW, for instance). But take note: The compatibility of DVD+RW and -RW discs isn't as much of an issue as it is with CD-RW; rewritable DVDs are nearly as compatible with drives and players as DVD-recordable discs.
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Can I copy commercial DVDs?
321 Studios' DVD X Copy
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Until February 2004, 321 Studios' hugely popular line of DVD-copying products, including DVD X Copy, DVD X Copy Xpress, and DVD Copy Plus, gave consumers the power to make backup copies of DVDs -- even those with copy protection. But when a federal judge in San Francisco ruled that 321 Studios' products were illegal because they circumvented commercial DVDs' antipiracy technology -- not because it's illegal to make copies, mind you -- the party was over. Since then, 321 Studios has released new, ripper-free versions of its line of DVD-copying apps, but these programs are considerably less potent and cannot copy commercial DVDs.
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Understanding the law
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Still, there is software out there -- even freeware -- that will circumvent the copy-protection schemes used on commercial DVDs and enable you to make copies of store-bought DVDs. ZDNet Australia does not encourage or condone the illegal copying of copy-protected discs, and doing so places you in violation of intellectual property laws.
To copy a movie, you first need to rip it -- that is, to digitally copy it to your hard drive after removing CSS, Macrovision, and region protection. To do this, you need a ripper such as SmartRipper, DVD Decrypter, or DVDShrink, all of which are free and available online.
Many commercial movies ship on 8.5GB, dual-layer DVD-9 discs and are too large to fit on a 4.7GB DVD disc. Tools such as DVDShrink let you compress the files and remove as much redundant information from the video and audio streams as necessary (up to about 50 percent) to make the movie fit on a single-sided, single-layer DVD. How can it do this? Unless the movie is longer than normal, chances are the publisher used a higher bit rate than necessary to keep the movie from fitting easily on a single disc. Despite all the missing information, shrunk copies can be hard to tell from the original. Double-layer DVD burners, which can burn 8.5GB double-layer discs, offer an even better solution and require no compression at all.
Once you've ripped and shrunk the movie, you can use your mastering or authoring software to burn the ripped movie onto a blank disc.
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What kind of DVDs can I legally copy?
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Copying a DVD movie that is neither copyrighted nor copy protected (that is, one made on your digital video camera or on someone else's or a nonprofessional movie) is as simple as firing up your mastering software and initiating the copy disc routine. Just place the source disc in the drive, click Copy, and place a blank disc in the drive when prompted.
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How do I back up my system?
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When disaster strikes your computer (and it will), it's much easier to reassemble the broken pieces of your electronic life if you've backed up your data. The most efficient and convenient way to back up your system is with a dedicated backup program, such as NTI's BackupNow Deluxe or Dantz's Retrospect. Some burning software suites also include backup programs, and you can also simply copy your files using packet-writing software, such as Nero's InCD, Roxio's Drag-to-Disc, or even XP's built-in solution. Packet-writing software allows you to drag and drop files onto a CD as if it were a floppy disk, and it's far less demanding of your system's resources than writing a CD or DVD, which can make your PC essentially unusable during burning. And if you're superorganised or you don't need to back up everything, you can simply burn the files you want with mastering software, such as Nero's Burning ROM.
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If you've recently purchased a new disc-burning drive or a new computer with a drive installed, you may find yourself with more burning questions than answers. Don't sweat it. We've selected eight of the most commonly bundled programs -- meaning that they come for free with the purchase of a drive.
Bundled software, however, is often a "lite" version of a larger application, meaning that it doesn't have all the features of the full release. Still, even the lite versions include all of the tools that most users will need for burning all kinds of discs; for capturing, importing, and exporting video; and even for some basic audio and video editing. If you're looking for more robust audio, video, and photo-editing capabilities or superior backup options, you should consider upgrading to one of these full suites.
Software options:
Ahead Nero |
BHA B's Recorder |
Iomega HotBurn |
NTI CD & DVD Maker |
Pinnacle Instant CD/DVD |
Roxio Easy Media Creator |
Roxio Toast |
Sonic MyDVD
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Ahead Nero
Ahead Nero |
Nero 6.0 Ultra is packed with powerful features for creating and backing up discs, as well as editing movies, burning DVDs, and much more. Beginners should look to the included Nero Express component, which features helpful wizards to walk you through the basics of disc creation. Once you're more experienced, try Nero Burning ROM, which provides a fuller range of options.
Nero's bundled, OEM versions lack the fullness of the Ultra suite and can't create as many types of discs or handle as many formats. They're also likely to be missing key applications, such as Burning ROM and BackItUp (depending on which version you have). To upgrade from the OEM, you'll need to visit Nero online and purchase an upgrade serial number for US$49.99 (~AU$70).
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BHA B's Recorder Gold 7.0
Basic
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While not the most eye-catching or full-featured disc-creation tool around, B's Recorder is a good basic program that will guide users through all of the standard tasks, including creating audio, data, or video CDs and copying discs. Unlike most of the other programs in this guide, B's Recorder has no reduced-feature OEM version, so there's nothing to upgrade.
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| Iomega HotBurn Pro
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If you've purchased an Iomega burner, you have HotBurn Pro, Iomega's own disc-creation software. It's a beautifully simple program, letting newbies make music and data discs or copy CDs, although you won't find video-editing or backup tools -- Iomega often bundles other software for that. There's no lite version of HotBurn Pro, but if you have an older version, you can upgrade for US$39.95 (~AU$56) by using the software's Update button.
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NTI CD & DVD Maker 6.7 Platinum
NTI CD & DVD Maker 6.7 Platinum
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At first glance, NTI CD & DVD Maker seems like only a basic burning app, covering the standard disc-creation functions. But dig a little deeper, and you'll find that it offers some other tasks, such as creating CD Extra discs and recording live audio. Power users will want to look to Nero or Easy Media Creator, but CD & DVD Maker is a good choice for beginners who want to start simple.
The OEM version of CD & DVD Maker includes only a trial version of the MP3 encoder, and it's missing live audio recording. You can upgrade to the full version for US$29.99 (~AU$42) from the NTI Web site.
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Pinnacle Instant CD/DVD 8.0
Pinnacle Instant CD/DVD 8.0
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In its latest version, Pinnacle has added a new, colourful front end to the suite -- making project selection easier for new users -- as well as excellent tools for movie authoring and audio and video playback. In our full review, though, we noted that the interface can be more confusing than that of other apps and that we had problems with audio playback.
There are two OEM versions of Instant CD/DVD: one has everything but the unlimited MP3 encoder, while the second lacks both that and the ability to play commercial DVDs. You can upgrade the lite version for US$19 (~AU$27) on Pinnacle's Web site.
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Roxio Easy Media Creator 7.0
Roxio Easy Media Creator 7.0
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Along with Nero, Roxio Easy Media is one of the giants of disc creation. Once known as Easy CD & DVD Creator, the suite changed its name as its focus broadened to include media editing and authoring. With it, you can create the standard disc types, as well as edit photos, capture and edit video, edit audio, and much more. Easy Media Creator's superfriendly interface, which clearly lays out the suite's many tools, is superior to Nero's, although it has a buggy history. For more, read our full review.
OEM versions of Easy Media Creator will vary, but version 6.0's OEM lacks tools for label creation, sound editing, and DVD playback, and it has limited DVD authoring, while the 7.0 version, which hadn't been released as of this writing, lacks MP3 encoding, the sound editor, several video-editing tools, and the ability to make scheduled backups, among other things. The price varies depending on which OEM you have, but it's typically around US$69.95 (~AU$99).
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Roxio Toast 6.0 Titanium
Roxio Toast 6.0 Titanium 7.0
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Most Mac users will find their disc-creation needs satisfied by Apple's own iLife suite, but those who want a broader range invariably reach for Roxio Toast. It combines an intuitive interface with a wide range of burning tools; we like it so much that our full review criticised only its documentation and support. With a clear, tabbed interface, Toast lets you select from the basic disc-creation tasks.
Toast Lite can handle a narrower range of formats and disc types, and it can't burn VideoCDs or SVCDs. It also lacks the Toast It app, which lets you burn directly from the desktop, as well as apps for importing LPs and cassettes or for scheduling backups. Upgrades to the full version are usually US$69.95 (~AU$99).
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| Sonic MyDVD Studio Deluxe
Sonic MyDVD Studio Deluxe
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Sonic's clear, friendly interface makes it ideal for beginners, and the suite rated highly in our full review. The two main applications are MyDVD, which has limited video-editing functions but is wonderful for authoring DVDs, and RecordNow, an all-purpose disc-burning tool. Neither has the extensive range of Nero or Easy Media Creator, but Sonic MyDVD Studio Deluxe will certainly satisfy most users.
OEM versions of MyDVD vary in what they offer. All of them lack the movie player, which would have required an extra licensing fee, and some have limited video-editing, burning, and backup capabilities. The fee to upgrade to the full version varies depending on which OEM you have, but it is generally 20 to 30 percent less than the full price.
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